by Rachel Petty
What started out as a hobby has blossomed into a full-time business for locals Robert Smith and Kim Dyer, who have recently opened a barbecue joint in Defeated…otherwise known as Hoggtown.
Kim and Robert’s story began when they married right out of high school, but things took a surprising detour when Robert decided to join the army. Kim couldn’t bear the thought of leaving Smith County, and the couple divorced.
Now, thirty-some years later, the two are back together and making up for lost time.
Kim is a native of Hickman, but she told Smith County Insider that the Defeated area had always held a certain charm for her. When the opportunity arose for her and Robert to open a restaurant there, it just seemed right.
For a long time, smoking barbecue was nothing more than an enjoyable pastime for Robert, but Kim began to encourage him to share his talent with the world.
“When I started eating his food, I’m like ‘We need to get this out there!’ and it just went from that,” Kim said.
The building that now houses Hoggtown BBQ had sat empty for 10 years when Robert and Kim purchased it, but the two had a clear vision and enough faith to take the first steps toward turning “the biggest eyesore in Defeated” into their dream.
For two years, Kim and Robert worked carefully to, as Kim put it, “bring life back into the building.”
The two have done just that.
Far from an eyesore, Hoggtown BBQ is impossible to miss, nestled along Highway 85 in the literal heart of Hoggtown.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is rustic and simple, making guests feel almost as if they have stepped back in time. It’s a little bit like the mountains, a little bit like the beach, and entirely like down-home Defeated Creek.
Various license plates, road signs, and large pieces of tin line the walls and ceiling, and a steady stream of country music pumps from the overhead speakers, creating a vibrant and nostalgic scene. Notably included in the decor are tributes to both Kim’s father, Mr. Allen Gibbs, and Mr. Bill Eden, the man who owned the store in the 1980s.
It all comes together with the smell of slow-cooked meat wafting from the kitchen and the glow of the lights from the refrigerators, fully stocked with cold drinks and cold beer.
If you visit the restaurant on a Friday or Saturday night in the summer, you might even hear some live music out on the porch.
Kim and Robert say that their primary goal at Hoggtown BBQ is to offer their customers a quality product for a reasonable price.
The Hoggtown BBQ menu features classic items like pulled pork, smoked shoulder, smoked bologna, country-style ribs (on Friday and Saturday), and fresh, never-frozen black angus burgers, each one served with an American flag toothpick on top.
Some fan-favorite menu items are the loaded BBQ nachos and addictive fried banana peppers.
For those looking to satisfy their sweet tooth after dinner, Hoggtown BBQ also serves delicious ice cream cones and sundaes.
Kim always knew she wanted to serve ice cream in her restaurant. She spoke fondly of her childhood in Hickman and recalled walking to the Hickman store to redeem Coke bottles for money so she could buy herself a treat.
“That was a big thing for me,” Kim said. “I wanted to bring that into this place, for the children. But I’m finding that the adults enjoy the ice cream cones as much as the kids do. And that really tickles me to serve them ice cream!”
In the future, Kim and Robert hope to expand the menu with items like fried catfish, frog legs, and milkshakes.
Something else that Kim and Robert offer is a discount for active and retired firemen and police officers, as well as all veterans. Service men and women get a free fountain drink every time they eat at Hoggtown BBQ.
Hoggtown BBQ first opened in early April and celebrated an official ribbon cutting at the beginning of June.
“We wanted to bring something to this area that wasn’t up this way,” Kim explained. She also told Smith County Insider that the name “Hoggtown” was close to her heart, and she was sad that a lot of people had stopped calling the community by that name. She hopes to “bring Hoggtown back” with the opening of her business.
“I always said that Defeated needed a barbecue place,” she laughed. “Because it’s in the name: Hog-town!”
Kim and Robert say that the people are their favorite part of the restaurant business, and that is evident in the way they treat their customers. When you walk in the doors of Hoggtown BBQ, even for the first time, it feels familiar, and you are greeted with a friendly smile and friendly service.
The couple readily admits that they love the craziness that comes with what they do. They see it as a challenge…one that comes with a great reward.
“I like seeing the people rub their bellies when they’re leaving,” Robert grinned. “That means we’ve done our job.”
Stay in touch with Hoggtown BBQ by following Hoggtown BBQ and Bait Shop on Facebook or by giving them a call at at 615-744-HOGG (4644).
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Update (July 10, 2019): Since this article was published, Hoggtown BBQ has begun serving Frog Legs and Catfish on Saturdays!
Do you own a business you would like us to spotlight on Smith County Insider? Have ideas for an exciting feature story? Email rachel@smithcountyinsider.com!
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